WHICH IS THE BEST BIKE?
The most frequently asked question I get by far is “which is
the best bike to buy?” While there are many bicycle companies, there
are actually very few differences from one bike to the next at any given
price range. The properties of strength and durability have pretty much
been established for the various materials being used in today’s
mountain bike.
Another question I get a lot is whether or not someone should
upgrade their old bike with newer components. A good way to tell if you
should get a new bike or simply upgrade the parts is if the bike is
pre-linear pull cantilever brakes (also known as “V-brakes”).
Besides suspension, this technology is the most significant improvement
in mountain bikes. Since you need to replace the brake levers as well as
the brakes when changing to linear pull cantilevers (and shifters if you
have integrated shifter/brake levers), you might as well go for the a
new bike because the drivetrain components will also be much more
advanced and refined. As well, suspension is now widely available, and
costs much less when you buy it as part of a complete package, rather
than adding it on later. To buy new parts and put them on your old bike
is probably going to cost you as much as buying a new bike, if you
include the labor it takes to install it all.
Despite the great advancements in materials, components and
suspension, the mountain bikes you see in today’s professional bicycle
dealers are very similar. Most bikes are built with very much the same
frame materials (depending on what price range you’re looking at), and
components are also very similar in form and function, even
manufacturer.
It’s actually a good thing that there is comparatively little
difference from one bike company to the next. It makes things easier to
deal with in the long run because all you really need to consider are
two things; how much you are willing to spend, and your color preference
(of course, there are cases where a bike model will only have one color
choice, but that doesn’t usually happen until your up over $1000).
This may sound oversimplified, but the fact is that no matter what bike
store you go into, you are going to find at least two or three major
bike brands that offer a full line of bikes, from the least expensive
mountain bike at around $350 all the way to the equivalent of a factory
racer at over $3000 or more. The key is to determine what kind of riding
you will be doing, and what your maximum spending limit will be.
Don’t sell yourself short. Even though you may think that you
won’t be doing any real intense off-roading, you may find yourself
being asked on a real mountain bike outing by a friend or co-worker. In
my experience, many people who purchase a low-end “trail bike”
eventually get bitten by the mountain bike bug and wind up either being
disappointed with their bike or going out and buying another bike. Even
though $350 may seem like a lot for a bicycle, and of course the more
you spend the more you will get, you’d be surprised at how much you
get for only a few dollars more, no matter what price level you’re at.
Spending a few dollars more from the start will probably save you a lot
in the long run.
COST COMPARISON
The cost of a mountain bike is dependent on two interrelated
things: Weight and durability. The lighter the bike, the more it will
cost because the frame and components have been lightened, yet the
durability of the parts has been retained. (Then there are the kinds of
parts that are ‘stupid light’—parts that, in spite of weight and
cost, are so light that they compromise the safety of the rider. I would
rather have a bicycle that weighs a few more grams that will last six
months to a year with no maintenance problems, than a questionably light
bike that may break if it meets a strong head wind!)
The mountain bike itself can be divided up into three distinct
areas: the frame, the components, and the wheels. However, all three
have similarities in terms of their value, performance and roles.
THE FRAME
The frame is the heart and soul of the bicycle, and the single
most costly component. You can change parts, but you can’t change the
frame. (Of course, you can change the frame, you just have to buy a
whole new one, not something you want to be doing on a regular basis.)
Over the years the mountain bike has arrived
at a fairly uniform geometry, with little variance. A bike with
“steep” head and seat angles and a short wheelbase will handle more
quickly than a bike with more relaxed angles and a longer wheelbase. An
average mountain bike geometry would look something like this (for a
19-inch frame measured from the bottom bracket spindle to the top of the
seat tube): head angle—71 degrees, seat angle—73 degrees, top tube
length—22.5 inches/572 millimeters , chainstay length of 16.75
inches/425 millimeters, and a total wheelbase of 42 inches/1067
millimeters. A bike with lower degree head and seat tube angles and a
longer wheel base will handle more slowly but with more stability.
REAR SUSPENSION
With the introduction of rear suspension, the term “swingarm”
is used to describe the rear triangle. There are several rear suspension
designs that are currently on the market, with the “raised low
pivot” (RLP) or independent swingarm dominating the production lines.
Unified rear triangles (URT), while popular a few years ago, have all
but disappeared except on low-end mountain bikes. A URT design has the
bottom bracket and drivetrain contained in the swingarm (the bottom
bracket is not attached to the main frame). With the URT design, because
of the inherent shock placement, when a rider pedals or is raised off
the saddle, the rider’s weight becomes supported by the bottom
bracket, which is below the shock. Therefore, when a rider raises up off
the saddle on a URT, shock absorption decreases significantly.
A RLP design has the main pivot located
slightly above the bottom bracket, with the bottom bracket being part of
the main frame. Shock placements vary in both designs. The RLP design is
active all the time, meaning that it works while the rider is either
sitting on the saddle or raised off the saddle, pedaling or coasting.
A variation of the RLP design uses a variety of linkages and/or
specially placed pivots to achieve a rear suspension that effectively
cancels out “bobbing”—movement of the rear shock under
acceleration causing power loss—while still being reactive to bump
forces. These are sometimes called “virtual” pivot point bikes.
Another system that is unique in this category is the No Resonance
System (NRS) from Giant. This design’s pivot placement actually
extends the rear shock under acceleration, literally locking it out when
torque is applied, therefore eliminating any bobbing. Yet the rear
suspension is still sensitive enough to absorb any bump force that it
encounters.
Yet another variation of the RLP is the single pivot swingarm design, as
best exemplified by Santa Cruz bicycles. A single main pivot is mounted
somewhat higher up on the main frame’s down tube and is light, simple
and very effective.
One last comment on suspension. You may be saying to yourself,
‘is suspension really necessary?’ Well, actually, no. You can still
ride a mountain bike off-road without suspension and still enjoy
yourself. But the added control and comfort of suspension is so
advantageous that I can see no reason for not having it (I, for one,
would never ride without it). Let’s put it this way; you don’t see
too many car makers offering cars without shock absorbers. People seem
to overlook the more important advantage of suspension: added control
under braking; the tires stay in contact with the ground over bumps,
giving you better control. Shock absorption is almost secondary and only
comes into play for those riders who are aggressive enough to get air on
a regular basis.
FRAME MATERIALS
A frame’s cost is directly proportionate to its material, as
well as the treatment the material has received. There are currently
five types of materials being used in mountain bikes today: high-tensile
steel, chromoly steel, aluminum, titanium, and carbon fiber. Heat
treating, oversized diameters, and butting (varying the wall thickness
of a specific tube to increase strength and reduce weight) are tubing
material treatments that increase a frame’s cost as well.
High-tensile
steel—Hi-ten, as it’s sometimes refereed to, is a very
durable steel “alloy” (mixture) that is found in lower priced
mountain bikes. It has a high carbon content, which makes it less stiff
than the higher priced “chromoly” steel (see below), so more
material is needed to make it stiff enough for bicycle frame
applications, which in turn makes it heavier. It is relatively
inexpensive to produce, so that’s why you’ll find it in lower priced
city bikes, trail bikes, and entry level mountain bikes. Some bikes will
come with a chromoly seat tube, while the rest of the bike is hi-ten, (a
little trick bike companies use to get you to think that their bike has
a chromoly frame). Hi-ten is rarely butted.
Chromoly
steel—Chromoly is short
for a steel alloy as it is
described by its major additives chromium
and molybdenum.. Chromoly
(also abbreviated as chrome-moly, cromoly, or cromo) is probably the
most refined frame material with over 100 years of service. Depending on
the kind of heat treating and butting, it can be found on mountain bikes
as low as $400 (small diameter, no heat treatment, no butting, or
“straight gauge”) all the way up to $1500 or more (heat treating,
oversizing, triple butting). It has very good durability and a somewhat
compliant ride characteristic.
Aluminum—Over
the past 15 years aluminum has been refined in much the same way as
chromoly. Various alloys have been developed, as well as heat treatment,
oversizing and butting. Aluminum is the material of choice in dual
suspension bikes because it is the stiffest and most cost effective for
this application. Aluminum is also much stiffer than chromoly, and
therefore will fail (crack) sooner than chromoly. This of course depends
on how hard you ride and how abusive you are to the frame. The
advantages of aluminum, especially in dual suspension bikes, is that the
frame can be made very light and very stiff through oversizing and
butting.
Titanium—While
still somewhat exotic, prices have come down substantially in the last
few years. Frames remain expensive because it takes a rather complex
process to weld the tubes into a frame.
Titanium is also an alloy, usually mixed with small amounts of
vanadium and aluminum to give it better ride characteristics and
weldability. Titanium is even more compliant than chromoly, and has
better fatigue and corrosion properties. While rigid rear end bikes that
use it ride very nicely, titanium is a bit too whippy for dual
suspension applications.
THE COMPONENTS (including suspension)
As with everything else on a mountain bike, materials play a big
part in the components as they relate to weight and durability. Another
aspect that comes into play is the level of precision and performance
that is provided by specific components, such as derailleurs and brakes.
Basic materials such as steel are very durable, but weight is high,
therefore cost is relatively low. The more you get into aluminum, brass,
and titanium, the more the cost will go up. And while even the lowest
priced components work quite well, the difference in precision on the
higher priced bikes is remarkable. Small, sometimes almost microscopic
“tolerances” (the fit between parts), along with more expensive
materials, all contribute to the higher cost of components.
THE WHEELS
The reason I list wheels separately is that, even though wheels
(hubs, rims, spokes, tires) are very similar to the above mentioned
parts in terms of materials and performance, it is important to
understand just how critical mountain bike wheels are. They undergo a
tremendous amount of stress, as well as making a huge difference in
performance depending on what type of materials and tires you’re
using. Because rotational weight is three times higher than static
(non-rotational) weight, even a low-end bike will feel like a high-end
bike (within reason) if it has wheels built up with light rims and light
tires. And speaking of tires, there is probably no one thing besides
tires that can change the ride and handling of your bike. Today’s
mountain bike tire is very sophisticated, with scientifically designed
rubber compounds, wheel-specific directional tread patterns and Kevlar
in the bead (where the tire inserts into the rim) instead of steel,
vastly improving cornering while reducing rotational weight.
SHOP SMART
Hopefully the above information will give you a general
understanding before going into your local bike shop. Even if you
don’t, as long as you have a price in mind and a color preference, you
can pretty much start shopping. Where to shop is almost as important as
knowing what to look for.
Currently there is a trend toward mass merchants. These
“warehouse” stores are able to offer good prices on real mountain
bikes. However, in most cases bikes are not built up by qualified
mechanics, and even if they have been pre-built at the factory and then
shipped, there is still no service department whatsoever at mass
merchants, or department stores for that matter. Should you need to have
your bike serviced, you are going to have to go to a professional bike
shop.
Virtually all bike shops offer some sort of free service
warranty, whether it be adjustments for up to 90 days after purchase, or
life-time to the original owner. Either way, if you didn’t buy the
bike at a bike shop, you’re going to have to pay for that service. In
most cases, one or two maintenance visits will more than make up for the
money you saved at the warehouse store. And a lot of times the only way
you can get any warranty work done is through an authorized dealer.
Professional bike shops are like any other retail establishment.
They are there to service your needs. That includes a clean and well
organized sales floor, and friendly and courteous attention. A polite
and professional staff are what you should expect and look for when
shopping for your bike. What you shouldn’t expect is a huge savings
from one shop to the next. The profit margin on bicycles is not that
high, so wheeling and dealing with the bike shop sales person probably
isn’t going to get you very far. You probably won’t get much in the
way of free things thrown in with your purchase either. Mail order is a
good alternative if all you’re concerned with is price, but mail order
companies usually charge shipping fees, and can take as long as a month
to deliver your order. And there’s no guarantee that it will be the
right part. In the long run it makes much more sense to deal with your
professional bicycle dealer.
SIZING
Besides giving you a much better selection
and expert advice, bike shop personnel can help you get fitted to the
right size bike, and select the proper accessories that you will need to
be prepared for the backcountry. Too many times have I seen a too large
or too small bike underneath a rider, and their enjoyment suffers
because of it. Below is a brief overview of how to fit yourself to a
bike. (If a bike shop employee isn’t using these guidelines in
assisting you, ask them about it. If they become defensive or
belligerent, politely excuse yourself from their shop and seek another.
Bike shops are service-oriented establishments. If they’re not willing
to treat you nicely, there are plenty of shops that will.)
Standover
Height—The first thing you check for when fitting yourself to
a bike is inseam clearance, or “standover height.” You want plenty
of room between you and the top tube when you come to a stop, especially
on uneven terrain surfaces. There should be approximately four to six
inches of clearance from the top of your inseam to the top of the top
tube (this is why many mountain bikes have sloping top tubes, for even
better top tube clearance). The easiest way to measure this is by
straddling the bike just ahead of the saddle with your feet flat on the
floor and grasping the handlebar, then raising the front tire up off the
ground with the handlebar until the top tube reaches the top of the
inseam. Measure the distance between the floor and the bottom of the
front tire to get standover height.
Leg
And Foot Position—There is a very specific formula for
determining leg position for riding a road bike. This is because the
terrain surface is very consistent, and the majority of riding is done
on the saddle, not raised off of it. However, with mountain bikes, where
the terrain is constantly changing, you are continuously raising off the
saddle, sometimes just slightly, other times completely. Therefore you
will actually set your saddle height slightly lower than you would on a
road bike to compensate for the varying terrain conditions. Make sure
you take this slightly lower saddle height position into consideration
when factoring the frame size.
Your position on the saddle should be at the rear, with your
“sit points” (ishial tuberosities of the pelvis) contacting the wide
rear portion of the saddle. You should not feel as though you are
resting in the middle of the saddle. In order to get the proper leg
extension you must examine your legs both in a static position and while
riding. Before doing either a stationary or riding examination, make
sure that the saddle is level (nose and tail horizontal), with the seat
post clamp in the middle of the seat’s rails. You will also need to be
wearing shoes that are approximately what you’ll be wearing while
riding (see “cycling shoes” (link) below).
A stationary examination requires that you be supported so that
you can put your hands on the handlebar in a normal riding position.
Placing your feet so that the balls of your feet are centered on top of
the pedals’ spindles (axles) backpedal the pedals so that they are at
six and twelve o’clock. The leg who’s foot is at six o’clock
should have a slight bend at the knee (the leg should not be straight).
The other leg’s thigh should not come up to, or past, horizontal.
Next, backpedal slowly and have someone watch your hips from the
rear. If your hips are being pulled down at the bottom of the pedal
stroke, the saddle is too high. If your hips are being pushed up at the
top of the pedal stroke, the saddle is too low.
Rider Compartment—The next thing to check is the rider
compartment layout (distance between saddle and handlebar). Once you
have determined proper leg extension, make sure the handlebar one to two
inches below the saddle height. The handlebar should never be higher
than the saddle height, unless there is some sort of a severe back or
upper body problem present. Your hands should be at the widest point on
the handlebar with arms slightly bent. The proper position is somewhat
upright, but also leaned over to put enough upper body weight on the
handlebar and front tire for control in the dirt. You should actually
feel like you are supporting your upper body with your arms slightly.
(However, when riding you do not lean on the handlebar with your
arms—instead, you support yourself with your torso and only slightly
with the arms—you’ll learn the proper general riding position
through instruction.) This also makes it easier for you to lean forward
to get weight off the saddle in rougher conditions. Your back should be
slightly hunched, and there should be a slight bend in the arms.
Dual
Suspension Mountain Bikes— With suspension at both ends, you
want your weight more to the middle of the bike so that your body mass
is evenly distributed between the front and rear suspension units,
allowing the front and rear suspension to work together. This is done
quite easily by using either a higher and/or shorter stem, and/or a
“riser” handlebar, and/or a taller “stack height” (taller
steerer on threadless forks) to raise the hand height, which will move
the upper body up and weight rearward. The total increase in rise should
be no more than two inches (50 millimeters), and decrease in reach
should be no more than two inches.
Test
Ride—Once you have accounted for all these steps, go out and
test ride the bike. Be sure to wear a helmet, even when testing a bike
for a short period! Make sure the tires have the correct pressure and
that the shop has adjusted the bike properly. Again, have a shop
employee observe your leg extension and body position while riding to
determine any final adjustments that may be needed. Ride the bike around
for at least ten minutes, getting used to its handling and equipment.
Start slowly, and give the bike some time to present its personality.
After a few minutes you may notice something isn’t working correctly
or just doesn’t feel right. Go back to the shop and have the problem
corrected before you dismiss the bike. While riding, keep these things
in mind:
• Does the bike feel generally comfortable?
• Is my upper body too cramped or stretched out?
• Are my hands too high or too low?
• Does it feel like I’m too far over the handlebar?
• Am I straining my neck too much to look up?
• Are the controls (shifters and brake levers) easy to reach? •
Does my leg extension feel comfortable (are my legs too
cramped/stretched)?
• Does the saddle support me correctly?
• Is the bike responsive, sluggish?
• Is the steering too quick/too slow?
• Do the brakes give me a feeling of confidence, or uncertainty?
• Is shifting quick and responsive?
• If the bike has suspension, does it absorb bumps well, bounce
like a pogo stick, or feel sticky?
• Does the bike feel sturdy underneath me?
• Is this a bike that I can enjoy for a year? Two years? Three
years?
The more bikes you ride, the more easily and quickly you will
be able to tell the difference between different bikes. But remember, it
takes months, even years to fully appreciate the way a bike handles.
Talk to the people in the shops who ride, ask them if they’ve ridden
the bikes they sell. If bike shop mechanics have one thing, it’s an
opinion about the bikes they ride!
